Fence Calculator
Posts, rails, pickets and concrete for a wood fence.
Fence posts
14 posts
Fence sections
138' between posts
Posts
144×4×8 pressure-treated
Rails
393 per section
Pickets
2195.5"-wide boards
Post-hole concrete
28 bags~2 × 60-lb bags per post
Material cost (est.)
$1,174lumber + concrete, excl. gates & hardware
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A wood fence is a very doable weekend-to-week project, and the posts make or break it. Get the posts deep, plumb, and set in concrete, and the rest is just rails and pickets.
DifficultyIntermediate
TimeA weekend for a short run; longer fences span a few weekends with cure time
SkillsComfortable digging, mixing concrete, and keeping posts plumb to a string line
PermitsMost cities limit fence height (commonly 6 ft in back yards, 4 ft in front) and many require a permit. Confirm the rules — and your exact property line — before you dig.
Tools you'll need
- Post hole digger or a powered auger (rent it)
- String line, line level, and a post level
- Bags of fast-setting concrete
- Circular saw and a drill/driver
- Tamper and a wheelbarrow
- Tape measure and marking paint
Step by step
- Call 811 and mark the lineCall 811 at least 2–3 business days ahead to locate buried utilities — free, and the law (the exact window varies by state). Then run a string line for the exact fence path and confirm the property line.
- Set the corner and end posts firstDig and set the corners and ends in concrete, plumb and to height. Everything else lines up to these.
- Set the line postsSpace posts evenly (commonly 8 ft) along the string, dig about 1/3 of the post length deep (and below frost line), and set each in concrete, checking plumb both directions.
- Let the concrete cureGive posts time to set before hanging anything heavy — fast-set mix firms in an hour but gains strength over a day or two.
- Attach rails, then picketsRun rails (2–3 depending on height) between posts, then fasten pickets to a string line so the tops stay even. Use the calculator for picket and rail counts.
- Hang gates lastSet gate posts extra solid — gates sag if their posts move. Add diagonal bracing to the gate frame.
Common mistakes
Not calling 811 before digging
Hitting a gas, water, or electrical line is dangerous and expensive. The locate is free — always call first.
Posts set too shallow
Aim for ~1/3 of the post buried and below the frost line. Shallow posts lean in wind and heave in winter.
Skipping concrete on end and gate posts
These take the most load. Always set corner, end, and gate posts in concrete even if you gravel-set the rest.
Building right on the property line by eye
Confirm the line (a survey if unsure) and check setback rules — a misplaced fence can mean tearing it out.
Safety
- Call 811 and wait for the locate before any digging.
- Augers can kick — keep a firm two-handed grip and clear footing.
- Wear gloves; pressure-treated lumber and concrete are hard on hands.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should fence posts be?
About a third of the post's total length, and below your local frost line — typically 2–3 ft deep for a 6 ft fence.
How far apart should fence posts be?
8 ft on-center is the common standard; 6 ft makes a stiffer fence in high wind.
How much concrete per fence post?
Usually 1–2 bags of 60-lb fast-set per post. The post-hole concrete calculator gives an exact bag count for your hole size.
How many pickets and rails do I need?
Enter your fence length, height, and picket width above — the calculator returns posts, rails, pickets, and concrete.
Next steps for this project
Sources & references
- Call 811 ("Call Before You Dig") to locate utilities
- Check fence height and setback rules with your local zoning office