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How to Pour a Concrete Slab

A slab — a patio, shed floor, or walkway — is one of the most achievable DIY concrete projects, and success comes down to a solid compacted base, the right thickness, and not rushing the pour or the cure. Work through the steps and tap “Add to my materials list” as you go.

DifficultyIntermediate–Advanced
TimeA weekend (plus cure time)
Cost$$ (concrete + base)
PermitsSometimes — check locally
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1Excavate and build the forms

Dig out the area and build level form boards (2×4s give a 3½” slab, 2×6s a thicker one), sloping the forms about 1⁄8–1⁄4” per foot away from any structure for drainage. The calculator gives the dirt to dig and haul.

Dirt to remove
22.2 cu yd
Dig area
600 sq ft12" deep
In-ground volume
22.2 cu yd
Loose (haul) volume
27.8 cu yd+25% soil swell once dug
Truckloads
3~12 CY per dump truck
Haul + disposal (est.)
$556~$20/CY (varies by area)

2Compact a gravel sub-base

Add and compact about 4” of crushed-stone sub-base, keeping it damp as you tamp for a stable, well-drained foundation under the slab. The calculator gives base gravel by the ton or yard.

Gravel needed
10.0 tons
Area
600 sq ftat 4" deep
Gravel needed
10.0 tons7.41 cubic yards
Delivered cost (est.)
$450~$45/ton crushed gravel

3Lay vapor barrier and reinforcement

Where moisture matters, lay a 6-mil poly vapor barrier, then set 6×6 welded-wire mesh or a #3 rebar grid at mid-depth on chairs (about 2” up in a 4” slab) to control cracking. The calculator sizes the vapor barrier and tape.

Poly rolls
1 roll
Area to cover
600 sq ft
With overlap
690 sq ft+15% for 6" overlaps & waste
6-mil poly rolls
1 rolleach 10'×100' = 1,000 sq ft
Cost (est.)
$70~$70/roll

4Pour, screed, float, and finish

Place the concrete (3,000–4,000 psi is ideal for home slabs), screed it level with the form tops, float to bring up the paste, run an edger around the perimeter, then broom for a non-slip finish. The calculator gives cubic yards and bags. Never add water to loosen the mix — it weakens the concrete.

Concrete slab cross-section 4″ concrete slab(thicken edges for driveways) Gravel sub-base 4″ Compacted subgrade Control joint Vapor barrier (6-mil poly) Rebar / wire mesh at mid-depth
Slab-on-grade layers — gravel sub-base, a vapor barrier under the slab, and steel reinforcement held at mid-depth. Control joints crack the slab where you want it to.
Concrete needed
7.41 cu yd
Slab area
600 sq ft
Concrete needed
7.41 cubic yards8.00 CY with 8% waste — order this much
80-lb bags
360 bagsor 480 × 60-lb bags
Ready-mix cost (est.)
$1,400~$175/CY delivered

5Cut control joints and cure

Tool or saw control joints ¼ of the slab depth (~1” on a 4” slab), every 8–12 ft, so the slab cracks where you want it to. Then moist-cure for 5–7 days; wait 48 hours before foot traffic and ~28 days for full strength.

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Frequently asked questions

How thick should a concrete patio slab be?
4” for a standard patio (3½” with 2×4 forms); go 4–6” for shed floors, garages, or anything carrying vehicle loads.
How far apart should control joints be?
Every 8–12 ft for a 4” slab — roughly 2–3 times the slab thickness in inches converted to feet — cut ¼ of the slab depth deep.
How long before I can use a new slab?
Wait 48 hours for foot traffic. Concrete reaches ~70% strength in 7 days and full strength at about 28 days.
Do I need rebar or wire mesh in a slab?
For a basic patio, 6×6 welded-wire mesh or #3 rebar at mid-depth controls cracking; thicker or load-bearing slabs benefit from rebar.

Calculators in this project

Sources & references