How to Plant a New Lawn (Sod or Seed)
A great lawn is built before a single seed or piece of sod goes down — in the soil prep and grading. Get those right, pick sod (instant) or seed (cheaper), and keep it watered. Tap “Add to my materials list” as you go.
1Test and amend the soil
Sample the top 4–6” from several spots and correct pH and nutrients per the test (or apply a balanced fertilizer). Do this a few weeks ahead so amendments have time to work in.
2Clear old turf and weeds
Remove debris, rocks, and stumps, and kill perennial weeds and old grass before you start — a clean slate prevents weeds from coming back through the new lawn.
3Rough grade and slope
Smooth and firm the surface, sloping away from the house at least 15 ft (about a 1-ft drop per 50 ft, ~2%). Avoid slopes steeper than 1 ft per 4 ft.
4Add topsoil and till it in
Build a 4–6” root zone: spread topsoil and till compost into the top 4–6”, then firm and rake to final grade (about ½” below walks and drives). The calculator gives topsoil by the cubic yard.
5Seed it
Spread starter fertilizer and seed at your grass’s rate (Kentucky bluegrass ~1½–2 lb, tall fescue ~6–9 lb per 1,000 sq ft), sowing half in each direction, then rake lightly and mulch with straw. Cool-season grasses go down best in late summer/early fall. The calculator gives seed pounds and starter fertilizer.
6Or sod it
For an instant lawn, lay fresh sod within 24 hours of delivery, butting seams tight and staggering them brick-fashion, then roll to remove air pockets. The calculator gives sod area, pieces, and pallets.
7Water and first mow
New seed: keep the top ½–1” moist with light daily watering until it germinates (1–3 weeks), then water deeper and less often. New sod: water daily for ~2 weeks until rooted. Mow once it’s established at 3–3½”, never removing more than ⅓ of the blade.